First glimpse of Taj Mahal: My visit to Agra, travelogue-Part 1

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I recently visited Agra, the City of Taj Mahal and the former capital of Hindustan. It was my first proper trip here with the sole aim to admire the beauty of the magnificent mausoleum, which has enchanted the world for almost five centuries now.

It is going to be a long travelogue with list of dos and don'ts apart from suggestions and tips. For a lay visitor, it could be an experience to watch the Taj Mahal. But if you have even the slightest interest in history, archaeology or architecture, then you will be truly astonished with the Taj complex.

First an advisory if you are planning a trip to see Taj Mahal. List of ten 'Dos and Donts' that would help visitors:

1. Plan the trip in advance and at least stay in Agra for two days. A daylong visit will not only exhaust you, it doesn't do justice with the monument and other structures in Agra. You should at least, spend two days in Agra.

2. Taj Mahal remains closed on FRIDAY [Juma]. On this day only the faithful--mostly people in Tajganj, go to the mosque on the premises of the tomb, for prayer [Namaz]. So plan your journey accordingly.

3. In summers, it can be really hot. So try to get as early as possible in the morning. The ticket is just Rs 20 for Indians and there is no entry fee for those below 15 years. We had the ticket in our hand at 7 am and were inside the premises for almost 2-1/2 hrs on the first day.

4. If you are taking kids along. Then go after a proper breakfast, as you are not allowed to take any eatable--not even toffee inside the premises. You just take the water bottle. So children may feel tired as it is a really huge comlex.

5. While you spend thousands of bucks on the trip, don't be a kanjoos [miser] when it comes to getting a GUIDE. Yes, you may not choose the man who demands Rs 1,000 or Rs 350 but do get a guide for Rs 200-300. Without a guide, you will simply go around the structure marvelling at its beauty but would not be able to see the real magic.

The guide will tell you things that you won't be able to spot. There are mysteries, illusions and unique aspects and in order to know them, the guide is a must. When the guides start approaching you from outside the entrance, you can choose one, but tell him that you need a patient person who can show the structure without hurry.

6. Of course, you should book the hotel through a well-known tourists' website, when you plan the trip. Prefer a hotel that is not far from the Taj. That will save you a lot, not in terms of just money or time. But if you are tired after going to Agra Fort or Hazrat Salim Chishti' dargah at Fatehpur Sikri, you'd realise how good it is to stay near the Taj.

7. If you want to take gifts for your family members, relatives and friends, find yourself a showroom of 'UP Handicraft'. Here, they won't tell you exaggerated prices. In fact, you will get a lot to choose from at reasonable price.

8. If you have sometime before going to the Taj Mahal, its a good idea to buy a brochure. Tourism department's booklets are also nice. They will give you insights and then you will be able to truly enjoy your visit. In fact, you will have a few questions for the guide then. And he will also take his job more seriously.

9. Normal cameras and cell phones are allowed. No laptops. Leave them in hotel room or at the cloak room [locker] at the main gate or in your hotel. Don't take other goods. Its better if your handbag has fewer things because it will make the security check easier.

10. You are allowed to take pictures, as many as you want. Normal cameras including the digital cameras are allowed. There is extra charge if you are carrying a  big video camera'. That means a camera which looks like 'video camera' [big ones].

Normal digital cameras that can do recording are allowed and not an eyebrow raised at them. It is only in the inner part of the tomb that the photos aren't allowed. And yes, don't worry, on the premises, there is toilet.

The Agra Cantt [Cantonment] or Agra Chhaoni railway station.

The advisory for travellers to Agra will continue in later posts also.

Right now coming back to the TRIP:

It was evening when our train reached the Agra Cantt railway station.We didn't have much luggage.

But from the platform itself, a teenaged boy began following us. He was asking us about our destination. Then, he wanted to know which hotel we were going to stay in and which auto or taxi we would like to take and our budget.

First we gently asked him to go away but he persisted. Walking with us on platform, the staircase, then the bridge and then to the platform number 1 until we came out of the station. He wanted to forcibly take us along to his taxi at the stand. We even shouted at him but it had no impact.

Once outside, there was a crowd of auto and taxi walas. For a while, it seemed they would fight among themselves as to who would take us. The prepaid booth was also empty. Fortunately, we spotted the policeman soon.

He was busy chatting with a group of auto-walas nearby. Compared to policemen at other cities in UP, he was clearly more 'tamiz-daar'. He shooed away the mob and we finally managed to take a taxi to the hotel, which we had booked through a travel website [and got a good discount due to online booking].

On way, I noticed that the road were now wider. Unlike other North Indian (UP) cities, there was no chaos here. Traffic was much better and less pollution. Clearly, the large number of tourists arriving here and the investment, had finally prompted local authorities to improve the infrastructure.

The hotel looked much better than we had imagined. It was less than a kilometre from Taj Mahal. The next morning, we woke up soon after the crack of the dawn. All of us rushed to the roof of the hotel room, from where we had been told that we could see a morning glimpse of the Taj.

There was light breeze when reached the top of the building. It was breathtaking experience to see the Taj in its full glory. It was clearly out of the world. Taj Mahal or the 'Crown Palace' in Urdu--a Wonder of the World. I remembered how legendary Bangla poet Rabindrathan Tagore described it in these words:

You know Shah Jehan, life and youth, wealth and glory,
they all drift away in the current of time.
You strove therefore,
to perpetuate only the sorrow of your heart.
Let the splendour of diamond, pearl and ruby vanish.
Only let this one teardrop,
this Taj Mahal,
glisten spotlessly bright on the cheek of time,
forever and ever.

We all know it was Mughal emperor Shah Jehan, who had commissioned to build the most beautiful tomb in memory of his beloved wife Arjumand Bano alias Mumtaz Mahal. But apart from this how much do you know about Taj?

It's mysteries, it's magic! Keep reading the next posts under the Agra Travelogue series on this blog. 

Poetry on Vehicles: Reading a Ghazal painted on auto-rickshaw on Indian street

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You may have often seen couplets or rhyming catch-lines written behind heavy vehicles, particularly, trucks and buses on the roads.

Sometime back I had seen this loading auto with almost a 'ghazal' painted on its back.

I was in a hurry and didn't have camera.

But I took out my cell phone, chased for a while and managed to take a snap of the loading auto that had these Urdu couplets written in Hindi [devnagari] script.

The quality of photo taken from cell phone camera is perhaps not too good. Still, its readable:

Aye mere ham-nashiiN kahiiN aur chal

is chaman meN apnaa guzaara nahiiN

This is the first couplet or opening lines of the Nazm. Quite an emotional line and you marvel at the auto-wala sahab's literary taste. The second couplet has the same 'qafia' and 'radeef' and it goes like:

baat hotii phuuloN* tak to sah lete ham

ab kaaNToN pe bhii haq hamaara nahiiN

Hmm. Janab appears to be a 'choT-khaye' person. After all, this sentiment comes when you ladylove breaks your heart and goes away. Only then you get so bitter. Then comes the third she'r:

tadbir se bigDii huii taqdiir banaa le

apne pe bharosa hai to ek daaoN laga le

Till now, it appeared that everything was lost. But now, it seems there is still hope. Let's make a fresh move.

Try your luck and perhaps, you may still win. Who knows! The feelings are intense. He has taken pains not just to remember but also get the words painted from an artist, it shows how important are these lines to him.

By now the verse has taken the format of Nazm. The last and lone line says, 'laDegii taqdir, banega muqaddar'.

Hmm. Is this the line from poetry or the auto wale uncle's own emphatic line! His own conviction reflected in this line. Later I found, the ghazal has a few more couplets. I am not sure who wrote the lines.

There may be one or two mistakes in writing here. However, it is just an example. For many auto-rickshaw or truck drivers, their life revolvers around their 'gaadi'. The way they get it painted or have catch-lines painted on them, reflect their personality.

A newspaper has a Sunday column where readers send interesting catch-lines written on the back of trucks or buses. An auto I often spot has this line written 'Zakhmi Sher'.

Another auto-rickshaw of which I am posting photograph here has this written, 'Sher ka peechha bachche nahiin karte'.

Similarly, there are caste-specific, regional and religious assertions also on auto-rickshaws. Some have names of 'deities' painted in bold, others have 'Jai Mata Di'. Chalo Vaishnav Devi' or 'Namaz ki Pabandi karein' printed on them.

Similarly, there are messages like 'Jai Bhim' or other messages with socio-political meanings. In our own little way, everybody wants to share what they feels strongly about and express themselves.

That's true for everyone--from the street to social networking sites. I have written posts on auto-rickshaws and road-rollers in the past. Expect more on auto-rickshaws in future as well.

[*guloN in original]

Beyond the Deccan: Urdu in Tamil Nadu, South India

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Injustice is done to South India, whenever there is a discussion about Urdu. The focus is mostly North-centric [especially Uttar Pradesh or UP] and to such an extent that the contribution of regions in South is generally ignored.

Apart from Hyderabad (AP), there are vast regions in Karnataka and even Tamil Nadu [yes, TN], where large number of Urdu speakers live. In Tamil Nadu, the region around Vellore has contributed most towards Urdu literature.

Surprising it may seem but there are towns in Vellore where Urdu magazines still sell more than many North Indian towns viz. Agra or Allahabad. 

But the focus remains disproportionately on UP. And this is to such an extent that even contribution of Bihar, Andhra Pradesh and Maharashtra are ignored.

Even Gulbarga [in Karnataka] is one of the most important centres for Urdu in contemporary India but it is always ignored. This happens despite the fact that Karnataka has thousands of Urdu medium schools, compared to nil [zero] in UP.

Renowned litterateur Aleem Saba Navedi wrote his landmark 'Tamil Nadu mein Urdu' ie Urdu in Tamil Nadu, which not only throws light on the Urdu speaking populace and culture of Muslims in this region, but also the literary contribution here.

Muslims here largely speak Tamil but there is a region where they do speak Urdu, with a slight Deccani tinge in their accent. The book tells us that if the first ever Urdu newspaper Jam-e-JahaaN-numa was published from Calcutta in 1822, the second Urdu paper Jama'ul Akhbar was published from Madras.

So Urdu journalism took root here much before Lucknow or Delhi! In fact, it was long after the Urdu paper Jama'ul Akhbar began publishing here in 1823, that the first Tamil paper began publishing [in 1855]. Interestingly, that Tamil paper was brought out by missionaries.

The book also deals at length with Urdu poetry and literature in Tamil Nadu viz. the ghazal, rise of Nazm, masnavi, other genres and art of calligraphy apart from discussions on role of madarsas in popularising Urdu in South India.

Aleem Saba Navedi, himself an eminent writer, has experimented with different genres of Urdu poetry. In this book, he has also mentioned important Urdu poets of Madras, Vaniamadi, Vellore, Krishnagiri, Madurai, Umrabad, Nellore and even those around Bengalore.

Though Urdu ghazal is being penned in Tamil Nadu for almost three centuries now, the book mostly focuses on the period 1824-1986. Readers may be amazed to know that Tamil Nadu has certain towns were Urdu is commonly used as script along with Tamil.

But it is not astonishing you if you realise that the state had around 1 million [10 lakh] Urdu speakers as per last census, much more than the number of people who consider Urdu as their mother tongue in a vast North Indian state, Rajathan [just 6 lakh or 0.6 million].

Urdu was lingua franca for ages and stills transcends regions. It is not a language of 'shumal' [North] alone but 'junoob' [South] as well. Isn't it time, Urdu-walas stop being excessively North-centric and obsessed with Uttar Pradesh in matters of Urdu?

Restrain Electronic Media: TV channels creating scare, terrorizing society for the sake of TRP

Less than 24 hrs after the blasts in Hyderabad, a landmine blast in Gaya in Bihar killed eight persons with Naxals as suspects in the incident.

Did you remember any channel showing 'Flash' or any reporter from Patna reporting it? I checked the channels' websites the next evening repeatedly but none of them had taken it on its front page.

Among national newspapers, except one, the remaining papers didn't take the news on its front page. Doesn't it show how blasts in India are treated differently.

Its not just about the toll. Two deaths or even none [but a few injured] in a City can lead to stoppage of all broadcast and live coverage of incident but 10-50 in Chhattisgarh [Jharkhand or other parts] may just be one of the headlines with no follow-up.

In fact, its not just about toll, the place where an incident and occurred and the possibility of the group involved in it, determines its seriousness. So here are a few points, my observations how the electronic media is dictating national agenda, politics and society's attitudes.

Ten points: My Personal Charge-sheet Against Channels

1. It is generally believed that terrorists want to scare us. In this job, Electronic media unfortunately seems to be playing the role of a facilitator. Why can't news of an explosion or blast be shown with restraint or just as news. Yes, it is important but is it so important that all other news and events are dumped. The channels quickly suspend all other programmes and show nonstop live coverage, with reporters and editors, guests and experts on panel.

2. This naturally creates a feeling of 'fear' among us, a feeling of siege. We get more scared than we should be and this is really a serious thing. We are made to feel insecure. Due to such coverage, everyone in cities is forced to see and talk about it. When they show nothing else, it is bound to dominate conversation. It is probably done because TRP is measured on the basis of viewership in Cities.

A blast in Gadchiroli or in Assam or in Bastar is not treated as seriously, perhaps, because in rural area people still watch our good old non-hysterical Doordarshan. An example is that when blast in Manipur killed three persons, there was no 'Terror' word but when one person was hurt in Pune, it was termed 'Terror'. Read it here.

3. Even if all the investigative agencies and their officers are mum and say that they have just begun investigation, the 'experts' begin mouthing names of bizarre sounding groups. The names will be taken for days. They will show even photo of man who was killed in a terror strike and defame him as a terrorist, as it happened with a slain politician from neighbouring country whose photo was shown by channels.

4. When last time Hyderabad was targeted, it was the group involving Lokesh Sharma and Devendra Gupta which had planted bomb. They are in jail. Why this possibility that their group could  be linked, was not explored?

It is known that Malegaon and Hyderabad were on hitlist of right-wing fanatics, then why along with 'other suspected groups, names of these groups were not taken? Or is it that 'Arabic sounding names' with photos of 'bearded men' bring more TRP! An example to suggest 'what is not termed as Terror'.

5. If the police say they have no clue, the media houses can't accept it. The reason is that every journalist worth his salt probably gets worried that if he doesn't write something, the journalist in rival paper may come out with a strange theory and this guy's stature as 'seasoned journalist or crime reporter' would be affected.

No one cares about the old journalist rule to confirm, check, re-check before doing a story. So why not some wild suggestions or theories. You ask the investigators about names of particular groups. Even if they don't say 'Yes', you can always write "Cops haven't ruled out". That's enough to run the story. Voila. That's magical journalism. And that's how it works in Indian media.

6. With such one-sided coverage, many of these channels, inadvertently, spread communalism and hatred. With photographs of Muslims and their names constantly repeated, it defames an entire community. These channels ought to be retrained.

They have resisted control or censorship in the past, and said that they would do it voluntarily themselves. But they have not been able to do it. There is no self-governing mechanism or code of ethics. People are defamed, and when they get acquitted, their lives are spoiled. There are no apologies.

7. Can't TV channels let police and agencies do their work? With such pressure as created by the electronic media, even the toughest agencies would feel the pressure to somehow catch a few guys and announce a wrap-up ie claim the credit of solving the case so as to shut up these guys. Journalists in India have already lost their credibility to such an extent that they are termed as police stenographers. No wonder, they will write what is told. Arrest of real culprits may or may not take place.

8. If TV channels have understanding of each and every organisation and have dossiers about all the culprits, why these shadowy groups don't get busted once for all. After all, then police must be knowing much more. Then, why incidents keep happening and why so many cases are still lying unsolved.

Isn't there something seriously wrong? Just today a man who was earlier termed 'mastermind' has been acquitted in a case of Karnataka. Once again, there is silence and no apology for defaming the person and destroying his life in the past.

9. Just keep record of news published in prominent newspapers and then tally them when the judgments are delivered, you will realise how we are being fooled. The reports published in many of the papers and aired on electronic media, don't quote officers or even suggesting that which sources are being talked about.

Its simple. You want to name someone or write something weird which comes to your mind. Just write that and in the end add, 'Sources said'. That's how the big circus is going on. Its everywhere. In Hindi and in English, both. Time to call their bluff?

10. I seriously believe that Indian electronic media is practicing Yellow Journalism. In the past, certain evening newspapers or tabloids were known for practicing dirty journalism--writing anything just for selling copies. But now its happening on a far larger scale. Its far more institutionalised. It spread more prejudices and stereotypes.

A large section of citizens is fed up. It is time to control these people [shouldn't there be certain accountability or some limit to which an event can be shown at stretch] who for the sake of eyeballs and TRPs, are hurting our society. This is no journalism. Its simply hysteria that is sold to us, creating scare and terror, causing disharmony.

I wish Government takes note as to how certain TV channels & newspapers are injecting poison in the society. They must take action, restrain this unchecked spread of canards and falsehoods. Journalism was considered the fourth estate, a pillar of democracy. But this pillar has not just weakened, it is affecting our entire democratic edifice.

Kindly save the nation.

[Disclaimer: When I say TV channels and media, it doesn't mean all of them. Its not a sweeping statement and hence I haven't named any of them, though I have screen shots to prove how they indulge in one-sided biased reporting. Still, I am being more responsible than them.]

Women praying in mosques: Girls mostly visit mosque for Eid prayers

The two occasions when you see maximum number of children in the mosque are the two Ids viz. viz. Id-ul-Fitr and Id-uz-Zuha.

There is the special attraction for the day: the joy of getting new dress, 'idee' and elders buying them toys from vendors outside the mosque.

Parents also take children of all ages including toddlers to the mosque on these occasions. Some of the kids are two young and during prayers, start crying.

Girls go dressed in new attire and sit along with their younger siblings. Most of them are below the age of ten years, though it is no rule.

When they show each other their bangles or toys, a snooty one in the rows nearby, may give a disapproving look, just as they do to boys talking or running.

Also, there is a third occasion. On the day of Alvida prayer [the last Friday of Ramzan], you get to see large number of kids including girls.

Though scores of boys are visible in mosques for Juma prayers, girls do not generally go to the mosques of Friday. Only if the family has to hurry up somewhere along with all the kids, and the mosque is on way, then the girl may also go.

The other day saw a girl along with her brother in the mosque. Though she was aware about how to offer Namaz, he kept on trying to tell her about how it is slight different than from praying at home. Children are often at the last row.

The most colourful sight is at rural Eidgahs or mosques in small towns, where you see really large proportion of girls among children at the mosques. Many of the girls carry their infant brothers while they play and  enjoy the festivity outside on Id day. One recalls Prem Chand's story Idgah about the boy Hamid at such places.

For men, they have to pray in the mosque. Women have been given liberty, there is no constraint, they can pray at home. Of course, they can go and there is no bar at all on their entry. When they visit a mosque, they pray separately. 

Mostly it is at historical and big mosques where they go to take a look, when they use the opportunity to pray there as well. Some journos in local Hindi papers were astounded when women prayed in Tajul Masaajid, Bhopal--that has clear space for women, from the days of the Begums of Bhopal. 

People on social networking sites keep asking strange questions regarding these aspects. An acquaintance [non-Muslim] asked me if women can enter mosques.I told him, yes they can. Haven't you seen women going to Haj'? He nodded but still seemed unsure about what I had said about mosques.

Arrey bhai, if even you are not a Muslim, you can step into any mosque. If you visit Jama Masjid [Delhi], Mecca Masjid [Hyderabad], Tajul Masaajid [Bhopal] or Atala Masjid [Jaunpur], chances are high that you may spot solitary woman or a group of woman praying. 

In some places, there is renewed interest among women, who are going to their own mosques for prayer. However, a majority of the women pray at homes. And if you are outside home or for picnic, the prayer time comes and you can offer Namaz anywhere,  provided that it's a clean place.

Also, in mosques that are along side Dargahs, you see more women praying. In medieval times, there were  mosques exclusively for women, in India. Also, in certain big mosques in India, there were areas marked for women to pray.