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Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Bun-Kababs: Culture of non-vegetarian street food in India

Lijiye Huzoor: Bun-Kabab haazir hai!
The Bun-Kabab is not a traditional street food but over the years it has emerged as a popular non-veg delicacy in India.

Though there is no dearth of mouth-watering delicacies but one needs to be aware of the localities where such food is available. Mostly these shops are in Muslim dominated mohallas.

It is in these lanes that one gets to find food ranging from 'haleem' [khichda], 'spicy kalejis', qeema samosas, seekh ke kebab to biryanis of all sorts and the ubiquitous chicken.

But in recent years an addition has been made in the form of'bun kabab', which has acquired a bigger following and has spread to several cities.

Firstly, it's easy to make and serve. If the 'shaami kababs' that are filled inside are good enough and the quality of buns is not bad, the hot bun-kabab tastes heavenly on an empty stomach.

In fact, a layer of green chutney and onions inside the bun, can do wonders. It's a close cousin of the burger but when it comes to taste, I assure you the bun-kabab is miles ahead and there is no comparison. Bun Kebab is the winner.

Alas, in an era when there is such deterioration of street food that biryani sellers turn the biryani into khichdi and put 2-3 kinds of chutney along with dahi or raaita, the bun kebab stands apart.

It is in the labyrinthine lanes in Muslim ghettoes in different cities that you get to find traditional food. Not just non-veg, but also unique sweets like 'nan-khatais' and 'andarse ki goli'.

Remember, every kabab wala is not a master and one has to try out at different joints before finding your favourite shop or stall that makes the best bun-kabab or any other similar dish.

If you are a real foodie, you will certainly venture out and find out yourself. Quality is a big issue and that's the reason one needs to do lot of survey before finding your favourite joints.

Once you have munched enough, it's time for tea. And nothing beats the 'namak wali chai'. It doesn't taste salty. In the huge samovar, the tea maker just sprinkles a bit of salt but the taste and the aroma are altogether different.

In the chai-khanas, the elders get the tea in 'pyali' while the youngsters mostly have it in glasses. The 'namak wali chai' seems to energize also.

Read earlier posts on Qeema-samosa sellers:

1. A samosa-seller's nap under the tree shade
2. Chacha's qeema stuffed samosas

Read earlier posts on 'chaai' and tea shops:

1. Culture of chai: Teashops are vanishing
2. My morning cuppas in Hyderabad


Archana said...

Sounds like a non-veg "Pau-Bhaji." How much is the price? I think it would be good as a quick breakfast with strong coffee or ginger tea.

See my post on the Arab-African revolutions.

Amit J said...

shams bhai,
yeh bun kebabs dar asal karachi ki ijaad hai....balki pakistan mein toh bun kebabs aur burger ek qism ke societal strata ban chuke hain...burger se unki muraad ki jaati hai jo angrezi school mein taleem hasil karte hon, aur oonche tabqe se hon....bun kebabs unko kaha jata hai jo middle class se wabasta hon

Hades said...

Left-over shaami kabab in a bun is something that I've eaten often enough at home but I've never seen it being sold anywhere--at least not in Delhi and Calcutta, two cities that I'm familiar with. But it is delicious. Which cities do you talk of btw?

I've never seen a qeema samosa also btw but I've seen something close enough--a luqmi whihc is squarish in shape though. They are very popular as an iftar dish.

indscribe said...

@ Archana Ji: You are right quite similar to that. I was away, just landed back and gonna see the post.

@ Amit bhai: Hmm. Thanks for the info.

@ Hades Sahab: Qeema-samosas are available in lot of cities including Lucknow, Hyderabad, Bhopal.

All these qeema-samosa sellers don't sit at a particular place and mostly follow a route, passing through selected lanes in walled cities.

So it's not easy to find them unless one is lucky or someone you know tells yout about the exact place the seller can be found.