Indians in Gulf countries: Book on Indian expatriates, their issues in Middle East

For long, the Middle East, which is commonly termed as 'Gulf', has been considered an El Dorado for Indians. 

The first wave of prosperity came in many parts of India, particularly, in South India, when lakhs of Indians got jobs in Middle East in 70s and 80s.

It is a fact that despite 5-7 million Indians working in Gulf countries, there is not enough focus in India on either their contribution to our economy or their problems.

For the record, the number of Indians in West Asian countries is at least four times the number of NRIs in America. 

Mohammed Saifuddin's book Expat Ride sheds light on the issues pertaining to Indians in Gulf.

Contrary to the belief that every person who goes to Gulf, manages to make moolah, it tells us how large number of people fail to save adequate money.

The semi-skilled workers face pathetic conditions, work hard by spending more hours in duty but don't get as much return for their efforts. From facing extreme weather and psychological issues due to living away from families, the book tells a lot about the situation on the ground.

The book tells us about challenges faced by expatriates in getting good education to their children. That they have to pay exorbitant fees to get admission in colleges in India and the quota initiated by AB Vajpayee-led BJP government remains limited to just a few educational institutions in India.

Saifuddin also touches the issue of taxes apart from exploitation by money-lenders and depression among Indians working in the region. As many as 70% of those who commit suicide in Dubai, are Indians! This is a shocker for everybody.

The author suggests that India should conduct surveys and take more steps to redress the issues of expatriate community. Another myth is busted in the book. Muslims are not favoured in Gulf countries. In fact, in key positions non-Muslims outnumber Muslims.

Mohammed Saifuddin

The number of Muslims among powerful Indians in GCC countries is just 18%. There are other serious issues like problems faced in repatriation of dead bodies to India.

These things need to be taken up on priority. It is true that Indian newspapers and Television channels seldom pay attention to these important aspects which affect a large number of people.  

But when it comes to sudden disappearance or crime against an NRI in America or Britain, our media forgets all sense of proportion and lap it up, showing it for hours.

But there is no such interest visible in Gulf. This is despite the enormous regular contribution in terms of remittances--sending money back home on regular basis, that runs millions of households in India.

Saifuddin, who hails from Hyderabad, has over the years penned articles for Yahind.com portal. The book comprises these articles. One hopes that the book would draw the attention of policy makers towards Indian expatriates in the GCC countries--United Arab Emirates (UAE), Saudi Arabic, Oman, Qatar, Kuwait and Bahrain. 

The Chillas of Hazrat Ghaus: Islamic shrines in Deccan

A couple of years ago when I first visited Hyderabad, the chillas had caught my eye. In North India, I had never seen them nor heard about them.

But in Hyderabad, I found them virtually at every other corner in the Old part of the City. I asked a friend [who is not a Muslim] and he told me that the 'chilla' is a common Islamic shrine in this region. 

Apart from mosques, if something is perceived as an Islamic shrine, then it's a mazaar, dargah or tomb. Or perhaps a Sufi khanqah (hospice). The chilla was a discovery for me.

I was surprised and asked him to wait for a while so that I could take a look at the chilla. The gate had 'Ya Ghaus dastgir' written in nastaliq Urdu. I sensed that it was Sufi-inspired shrine a la mazaar though of a different kind.

There are dozens of them in dense localities in Old Hyderabad. What I could make sense of a chilla was that wherever there was a green flag aflutter with image of a tiger on the wall other than angels, it has to be a chilla. It doesn't need much space.

Later I asked Hyderabadi Muslims and came to know about chillas. The chillas are spaces in honour of the great Sufi saint of Qadiriah order of  dervishes, Sheikh Abdul Qadir Jilani, [also Gilani], who was born in 1078 AD, a venerable figure for Muslims, especially, in Central Asia and South Asia.

On the occasion of the anniversaries of the Saints, a fresh flag is unfurled amid much fanfare. Hundreds of chillas are waqf properties. The earnings in some cases are substantial and there also madarsas and charitable orphanages run on the premises of the chilla.

Also termed Sultan of Saints, he is commonly referred as Ghaus-e-Azam [highest in the hierarchy of Sufi saints] or the supreme helper. He wrote famous texts like Futuh-ul-Ghaib, Malfuzat and Al-Fath ar-Rabbani [or the sublime revelation]. 

He is held in great esteem and the Gyarahvin Sharif is observed amid much fanfare in some parts of the country. There is a famous story about his childhood. While leaving with a caravan, his mother had given him a few gold coins. When the robbers came and everybody hid their valuables, the Sardar of the robbers asked the young boy about his possessions.

Having told by his mother that one should never lie, the young Muhiuddin Abdul Qadir told the robbers that he had the gold coins sewn in his dress. Initially the sardar thought it was a joke but when he tore the coat and found the gold, he was impressed with the boy's truthfulness and returned all the valuables.

In the last couple of decades, there is a marked shift, especially among middle-class upwardly mobile Muslims, who don't believe in intercession..

The visits to mazaars are also seen as idolatory but these are all extreme reactions. It doesn't mean that respect for Sufis has lost favour among the masses. 

In fact, there is also an urban class that looks at Sufism as chic and fashionable and label themselves as followers of Sufism.

There are millions who irrespective of their religious affiliations have respect for the Sufis and follow their path towards God. It's immature to assume that all Muslims who visit mazaars, are idolaters. 

That's an extreme reaction--more due to lack of awareness, getting judgmental about others and sectarianism. These shrines attract devotees of all religious and sects. Many visit the shrines for mental peace. 

Chillas of Gharib Nawaz

Above the Vindhya ranges [in Northern India] I haven't seen the Chillas anywhere. In Southern India, they are common. The flag is unfurled when someone's wish is fulfilled. Others also visit, pay respect at the shrine.

In parts of Southern India, most of the Chillas are that of Hazrat Ghuas and Hazrat Khwaja Gharib Nawaz of Ajmer. Apart from the Urs, on the sixth of every month there is a 'taqrib'. During Urs, the new 'sehra' is mounted on the chilla.

The poor folk mostly gather, recite fatiha and the 'tabarruk' is distributed. In short, Chillas are the 'Memorials of Sufi saints'. Sectarian differences apart, they represent another unique, localised and distinct phenomenon that adds to the Indian culture, which is a blend of myriad religious practices.