Bhopal's historic Shaukat Mahal facade brought down: Destruction of heritage due to apathy of government, civic authorities

Shams Ur Rehman Alavi

Shaukat Mahal palace, a unique example of Indo-French structure, built during the reign of Nawab Qudsia Begam nearly 180 years ago, was in the need for restoration and it was repeatedly brought to the notice of authorities.

Yet, there was no attempt to save and strengthen the heritage building and when a crack developed on the facade of the structure this week, the civic authorities instantly went and demolished the portion--crown and two storeys on the front.

This shameless display of apathy towards heritage is common place in the country, despite growing awareness about need to conserve the past and save the heritage structures.

Bhopal--City of Lakes, Palaces, Monuments, Mosques

Bhopal is among the few cities that have have such abundance of heritage structures--palaces, historic structures and gates.Take for example, the royal complex near Moti Masjid, you will be overwhelmed by the grandeur of imposing buildings of the era when Bhopal was a princely state.

On one hand, you have Gauhar Mahal, the beautiful Baab-e-Sikandari gates, while adjacent to it is Moti Mahal. Further, the Shaukat Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Sadar Manzil and Humayun Manzil, along with the Moti Masjid and Minar-e-Iqbal, turn the place majestic.

But successive governments and civic authorities have turned a blind eye to the restoration of these structures.

The city of lakes has so much for tourists, yet, authorities have failed to even project it as a tourist destination.

In fact, despite monuments, lakes, museums, mosques and dozens of tourist attractions, government has totally failed to harness the potential.

Demolition easier than restoration!

Worse, the structures are crumbling and there is no attempt to save them--either on one pretext or the other.

If one structure can't be protected because it is either Waqf property, or it can't be saved because it is not under a particular department's jurisdiction.

There are so many bahaanaas, the pretexts--for yet another monument there is 'lack of budget' or a particular monument is 'private property'.

The truth is harsh. Successive chief ministers and civic administrators have no vision and as a result the monuments are being destroyed.

Citizens do share a part of blame. But this is also a fact that people came on the streets to save structures in the past, which government wanted to demolish.

Especially, in the case of Jumerati Gate and Old post Office. Majority of officials and ministers have little interest in saving heritage.

Hence, handful of activists and protesters' voice or demonstrations are just not enough to shake the babus.

The heritage is being ravaged by careless civic officers, land grabbers and the illegal encroachers.

What can be more tragic than the fact that we are all witness to this shameless destruction of heritage.

[Photos courtesy, news link as well: Dainik Bhaskar]
[Shaukat Mahal was built during the reign of Nawab Qudsia Begam, as wedding gift for her daughter Nawab Sikandar Jahan Begam]

Mausoleum for husband: The Monument built by a woman in memory of her beloved husband in Najibabad

INDSCRIBE

This is not a very well known story--that of a wife building a monument in memory of her husband.

The mausoleum stands amid ruins in the historic Najibabad town in Bijnore district in Uttar Pradesh (UP), India.

Unlike the story of Taj Mahal, which is famous across the world, and which was built by Shah Jehan in memory of his wife, the presence of 'Chahaar Minar' or 'Char Minar' in Najibabad, is testimony to a woman's love for her late husband.

The wife of a Nawab, she got the monument constructed to immortalize her husband's memory after he died young. The tomb was built in memory of Nawab Jahangir Khan, a kin of Najibuddaula--the founder of Rohilla dynasty at Najibabad.

Historians say Nawab Jahangir Khan was married in Kotra, Kiratpur. Two years after the marriage, once when he had gone to bring back his wife, he died in a mishap. During the celebratory fireworks on his visit, a 'gola' [big cracker] hit him.

Is is mentioned in texts that Jahangir Khan got injured as he got burnt in the chest. The Nawab had later succumbed to the burn injuries. The death of her husband shattered his wife. The Begum, then built the 'maqbara' (tomb) in memory of her late husband, at Moazzampur Teligarhi on the outskirts of Najibabad.

The grave [Qabr] was in the middle under the big dome, with the four minarets around it, on four corners. The dome fell long back. The minarets stand even now. Each of these minarets is quite thick, three-storey tower, with staircase leading to the top.

The building made of 'lakhauri' [old style bricks that were smaller but more baked and gave a different texture to structure] has minarets separated from each other at a distance of 50 feet.  The unique structure is crumbling now.

Even the foundation of the minarets is in a dilapidated state. The mausoleum was constructed long ago and though it survived centuries, the apathy of local officials and the indifference of Archaeology department, is killing the monument.

Some vernacular newspapers have taken up the issue earlier. In a few Hindi newspapers, the news about the  ancient building has been published. Recently, Aftab Nomani, wrote an article in Roznama Sahara [Urdu] highlighting the sorry state of affairs in the Archaeology department and the plight of this monument.

Nomani wrote that Sardari Begam had built the monument for her husband Jahangir Khan. Shouldn't such monuments be conserved? Except Agra, the condition of numerous such monuments in districts of UP, remains pathetic.

Low budget and lack of interest on part of tourism-archaeology officials is leading to the destruction of such amazing heritage. With builders and encroachers eyeing every inch of land on the Indo-Gangetic belt, the future is bleak for monuments.

The 'Chahar Minar' maqbara is located on the lofty mound known as Mordhaj. For years it has been awaiting restoration. Will it ever happen? Unlike the famous Taj Mahal, [also a mausoleum] this monument is expression of a woman's love for her husband.

See other links:
1. Hidden Heritage: Coming across a Shia shrine, The Karbala at Mohan
2. Mysteries, Secrets and Little-Known Facts about Taj Mahal

Clock towers of Awadh: Lucknow's Ghanta Ghar and a father who built clock tower in son's memory

Shams Ur Rehman Alavi

Clock towers are fascinating structures, remnants of the bygone era.

Over the years, some of them have almost come to symbolise the cultural heritage of the respective towns.

Most of these clock towers date back to the pre-independence era when the princely rulers, British officials or the rich Indians built them.

Husainabad Clock Tower

Lucknow's famous Husainabad Clock Tower, also commonly known as, Ghanta Ghar, which was built in 1887, is said to be the tallest such structure in the country.

It is located midway between the Chhota Imambada and the Bada Imambada and is quite close to Rumi Darwaza. This majestic tower is around 67 meters [220] feet high.


Lucknow's Lesser-Known Irshad Clock Tower

But first I will talk about a little-known clock tower in a Lucknow lane. I had accidentally discovered it during one of my causal walks in the by-lanes of Old Lucknow.

The 'Irshad Clock Tower' is located near the City railway station [not Lucknow main station]. There is an emotional story behind its construction.

Khan Bahadur Nawab Syed Hamid Husain Khan had built this tower in memory of his son, Nawab Syed Irshad Husain Khan, who died at a young age.

This beautiful structure that immortalizes a father's affection for his son was constructed almost ninety years ago.

The other aim behind the construction of this clock tower was that citizens should be able to know correct time and the Namazis could also offer prayers on time.

In the photograph, one can clearly read the words 'Irshad Clock Tower' and 'Hamid Park' written in bold letters just below the dial.

Clock in Hazratganj

The tower is located in the midst of the park, which is not visible from this angle in the photograph. It was an imported clock brought from London. Hamid Husain Khan was a talluqadar and chairman of Lucknow municipal board during British era.

Even today the family members residing in Saltanat Manzil including Professor Nawab Syed Ali Hamid [grandson of Khan Bahadur], Begam Nazima Raza [great granddaughter] and Nawabzada Syed Masoom Raza spend a particular sum annually for maintenance.

When the clock stopped for the first time in 1980, the repairers from Bareilly were called a large amount was paid to restore it. Parts of the clock machinery aren't available any longer. Still, a person has been given the job of basic upkeep.

Ghanta Ghar: Clock House, Barabanki

Though the family has been undertaking maintenance of the clock tower and has called repairers from outside in the past, the building needs conservation and authorities' attention.

However, there is no effort on part of government or civic authorities regarding the restoration. But that's the story of most of the clock towers.

As far as Husainabad Clock Tower is concerned, the local authorities including Shia Waqf Board and municipal corporation seem to be taking some initiatives.

Clock House in Barabanki

Lucknow's neighbouring town, Barabanki, also has a historic Clock. Not a tower in the sense but it is also termed Ghanta Ghar, the Clock House, which is located in the midst of the densely populated market place.

Now a days, it is rare to hear of any new clock tower getting erected in the country. It is all the more a reason to keep these structures in shape and ensure the clocks function. Of course, there are practical difficulties. As major clock repairing companies have shut shop, it has become difficult to get the disfunctional clocks work again.

There are many more such 'Ghanta Ghars' in different towns of Awadh, rest of Uttar Pradesh (UP) and also other parts of the country, that are worth mentioning but they can be subject of future posts.

Read the earlier post on Blogging from Lucknow at this LINK.

Blogging from Lucknow: The Romance of Rumi Darwaza, Bhul Bhulaiyan & Imambadas

Rumi Darwaza, Lucknow

Shams Ur Rehman Alavi

Once again I was in Lucknow, the City about which poets and litterateurs say that it haunts you more when you are far away from it.

Walking past the historic Rumi Darwaza, which was built in 1780s by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, I was filled with nostalgic memories.

Even if you have seen these structures from your childhood, the splendour of the entire area has an impact every time you pass by these marvels of architecture.

As you walk from Chowk towards the Bada Imambada [also Bara Imambara], the sight of Husainabad Clock Tower or the Ghantaghar, which is the tallest clock tower in the country, strikes you.

With the imposing Rumi Gate in the front, the Bada Imambada and the Bhulbhulaiyan [maze] on the right and the Tile Wali Masjid visible on the other side, anyone would feel impressed by the sheer magnificence of  architectural heritage in this City, which has not been properly publicised internationally.

The entrance to Imambada (left) and Rumi Gate in the front.

Rumi Gate symbolizes Lucknow but it hardly gets the sort of attention which other historical gates like  Hyderabad's Char Minar gets.

Frankly, it is Rumi Gate that fascinates me more, but is it because Lucknow is the City of my birth and I am biased in favour of it!

In the eighties, when one could climb to the top of the darwaza, I often went there and found Yaqub, an interesting man, always enjoying the breeze and the view of Gomti.

Whenever he saw someone, he would get up, share interesting tales about the City and the citizens. He spent nearly 15-18 hrs there. He did nothing else for livelihood. Yaqub was graceful and would happily accept even a rupee or two which visitors happily gave. But then he disappeared later.

A view of the Rumi Gate from the other side.

It was difficult even then to reach the top as staircase had been crumbling and some arches had collapsed.

I didn't have to courage to venture there once again and see the decay.

The Rumi Gate [called Turkish gate also as it was modelled on lines of a structure in Constantinople], the entrance of the historic Old City of Lucknow, has stood proud for over two centuries.


But unrestricted movement of heavy vehicles and traffic that pass through it round the clock has caused tremendous damage to the structure. Sadly there are only half-hearted efforts to preserve the structures.

Much has been written about the architectural beauty of Bada Imambada, the Asafi Masjid on its premises and the world renowned Bhulbhulaiyan that has labyrinthine lanes and symmetrical arches and corridors that confuse the visitor.

Inside bhulbhulaiya

People are bewildered as once inside the building, they fail to find which way leads to the top and how to get to the exit.

The three dimensional maze has nearly 490 identical corridors and passages which flummox the visitors, especially when they take a staircase downwards but find that they have landed on the higher plane.

The bhul-bhulaiyan also has amazing acoustics. A whisper or the sound of tearing a paper is heard loudly across the other corner.

So that there was no room for conspiracies! But conspiracies eventually did take place and the British captured Oudh but that's another story.

There was a similar underground maze which was shut for visitors long ago. It is believed that it was impossible to come out of it without a guide.

And few guides had remained who could successfully take a person in and bring him out without getting lost.

The locked entrances to the lower bhool-bhulaiyan are visible though. It is also rumoured that there was a 'surang' [underground tunnel] that connected the Imambada complex to Faizabad.

With Chhota Imambada and the incomplete Satkhanda tower nearby, this part of Lucknow is truly unrivalled in terms of heritage as it represents the epitome of Indo-Islamic architecture in Awadh.

It is well-known that Asaf-ud-Daula undertook the construction of the Imambada, Rumi Gate and Bhulbhulaiyan to give employment opportunities to people in the times of drought.

Those who were reluctant to do the job of construction labourers, could even work at night, and avoid the embarrassment.

Everything is bound to change. But the change should be steady, not sudden and abrupt as it leads to chaos.

One hears much about erosion of cultural values [tehzib, zabaan] of Awadh, still a lot remains. The structures have also survived the ravages of time and inspite of government apathy.

After independence, the Congress-led governments in Uttar Pradesh showed little interest in conservation of the structures that dated back to the Nawabi past.


Composite culture was a term used more frequently in speeches now but not put in practice on the ground. The tombs of Urdu poets disappeared or were encroached upon.


The great Mir Taqi Mir's grave also fell victim and vanished. After the turbulent 80s that saw the rise of fanaticism in Uttar Pradesh and the after-effects of which were seen in the nineties as well, things cooled down a bit in the last decade.

After Mayawati came to the helm, statues of Dalit icons appeared in Lucknow. It was understandable also, as the neglected icons of history belonging to backward classes like the tribal freedom fighters in other parts of the country were given their due.

Of course, there was criticism also, predictably from the urban class over the expenditure and the changing skyline that showed Dalit assertion.

But it was unlike BJP government that had in its revivalist zeal even changed the name of Begum Hazrat Mahal park.

The park named after the great freedom fighter, was changed to Urmil Vatika.

Despite protests, BJP had refused to budge and the name was restored only when the State government fell.

As the BSP government has now gone beyond its Dalit cultural agenda and went about refurbishing Hazratganj, which has earned government the goodwill of the middle-class, it's time the neglected monuments of Lucknow that need restoration and upkeep should also be taken care of.

Will the Lucknow residents raise a strong voice?